#3D printing · FDM and resin

Building parts by adding material layer by layer from a digital model. Two main technologies are used in modeling: FDM (melting a plastic filament — cheap but coarser) and resin SLA/MSLA (curing liquid resin with UV light — very fine detail). Resin printing now dominates for figures and detail accessories.

Printed resin parts must be washed in alcohol (IPA), post-cured under light and have their supports removed before you start painting.

#Accelerator · CA activator

A spray or liquid that instantly cures super glue (CA). Handy when you need a joint to set immediately, or when the glue won't cure on its own. Use it sparingly, as it can slightly fog a nearby glossy surface.

#Acrylic paint · water-based paint

Water-based modeling paint. It's the most widely used type because it thins easily (often with just water or an acrylic thinner), has little odor and can be used indoors with ordinary ventilation. It dries fast and brushes clean up with water.

The downside is a slightly less durable dried film, so it's good to protect an acrylic finish with a varnish once you're done. For beginners it's the safest choice.

#Aftermarket · add-on parts

A catch-all term for any extras bought separately and made by a company other than the kit's manufacturer. This includes photo-etch, masks, better decals, resin or 3D-printed parts, and entire detail sets — for example a more elaborate cockpit or running gear.

Aftermarket is there to take a model beyond what the box offers. You don't need it for your first builds, so feel free to skip it.

#Airbrush · spray gun

A spray gun that lays down paint using compressed air from a compressor. Unlike a rattle can or a brush, it can apply very thin, even coats, create subtle color transitions and spray realistic camouflage with soft edges.

An airbrush is probably the single most important investment for raising the quality of your models. You'll need the airbrush itself, a compressor (ideally with a tank) and properly thinned paint. A double-action airbrush — where one finger controls both air and paint flow — is a great place to start.

#Base · display base

The stand a finished model is displayed on. It can be a simple plaque with a nameplate, or part of a vignette or diorama with terrain. A well-chosen base "seats" the model and completes the impression.

#Base coat · first color layer

The first "color" layer on the model after the primer — the main shade on which shading, camouflage and weathering are built. Apply it thin and even, ideally with an airbrush. Don't confuse it with primer, which goes underneath it.

#Black basing · dark underpainting

A technique where the model is first sprayed all over in black (or a very dark color) and lighter shades are then airbrushed from above. Wherever light "can't reach" (folds, seams, lower edges) the black shows through, giving the model depth and a three-dimensional look even before weathering.

It's a more advanced form of pre-shading. It takes a feel for it and several coats, but the result looks very realistic.

#Box scale · fit-the-box ratio

An odd scale chosen so the model fits a standard-size box rather than following a "round" ratio. Common on older kits. It's rare today, since manufacturers stick to established scales like 1/72 or 1/48.

#Build · a model project

A common term for the act of building a particular model, and for the whole project from opening the box to finishing. "My Spitfire build" simply means "my in-progress (or finished) Spitfire model."

#Burnishing · blackening metal

Chemically blackening metal parts, most often brass photo-etch. The shiny metal is dipped in a special solution that turns the surface black. The part then looks more realistic and, importantly, holds the following paint or primer better.

#CA glue · super glue

Super glue (cyanoacrylate, "instant" glue) that bonds almost immediately and very strongly. Essential for resin, photo-etch and metal, where plastic cement won't work. It comes in thin and thick (gel) versions; it sets even faster with an accelerator.

#Camouflage · paint scheme

The (camouflage) color scheme of the real machine or vehicle. On a model it's reproduced either with an airbrush for soft edges (typical for aircraft) or with sharp edges using masks. The right camouflage determines exactly which machine — and which period — the model represents.

#Chipping · paint wear

Recreating spots where paint has worn off the real machine down to bare metal or primer. It's done either by hand with a fine brush (dotting and tiny scratches) or with one of the lifting techniques (see Hairspray and Salt technique). Chipping is one of the most effective weathering elements, instantly telling the eye the machine has "been through something."

Less is more: concentrate chips where the crew climbs and where the machine rubs, not evenly across the whole surface.

#Clean-up · removing mold marks

Removing manufacturing marks: leftover gates, flash, the seam line and ejector pin marks. The part is trimmed with a knife and sanded with a fine file or sanding sponge until the surface is smooth. Careful clean-up is an inconspicuous but crucial step that the whole quality of the model rests on.

#Clear parts · transparent parts

Transparent plastic parts, typically aircraft canopies, vehicle windows and headlights or lenses. They need careful handling, because they scratch easily and can be fogged by glue and fingerprints.

Clear parts are never glued with ordinary plastic cement, which clouds them. Use a special clear-parts glue or white (PVA) glue, which dries crystal clear.

#Cockpit · crew compartment

The pilot's compartment of an aircraft or the cab of a vehicle. It's usually the first thing you build, and on aircraft it's one of the most-viewed areas — which is why most aftermarket upgrades target it.

#Color modulation · tonal shading

A technique where a single base color is applied in several shades from darker to lighter to emphasize the model's volume. Upper surfaces and edges are lightened, lower and shadowed areas darkened. Large flat surfaces (the side of a tank, say) stop looking flat and the model takes on a "cinematic" look.

#Compressor · air source

The source of compressed air for an airbrush. For modeling, a compressor with a tank (which smooths out pulses and holds steady pressure) and a regulator is recommended. A quiet diaphragm compressor is a popular first choice.

#Decal · waterslide transfer

A thin printed film with markings, transferred to the model using water. The decal is dipped in lukewarm water for a few seconds, slides off its paper backing and is positioned on the model. This is how insignia, numbers, lettering and instrument panels get onto the model.

For a decal to adhere perfectly, decal setting solutions are used and it's always applied over a glossy surface (see Gloss varnish), otherwise you risk so-called silvering.

#Decal setting solutions · Micro Set / Micro Sol

Special liquids that help a decal settle perfectly. They come in two types, usually used together:

• a softener applied under the decal (softens the surface and improves adhesion) — Micro Set, Mr. Mark Setter
• a stronger softener applied onto the decal (it goes limp and "sinks" into panel lines and over irregularities) — Micro Sol, Mr. Mark Softer

In short: "Set" goes on the spot before the decal, "Sol" is brushed over the top once it's in place. After the stronger solution, don't touch the decal for a while — it's soft and damages easily. Once dry, it conforms perfectly to whatever is underneath.

#Detailing · superdetailing

Adding detail beyond what the kit provides, whether from the aftermarket or made yourself (scratch). The goal is greater fidelity — adding engine wiring, rivets, straps or cockpit instruments, for example.

#Diorama · a scene with a story

A scene that places the model in an environment and tells a story: a tank in city ruins, an aircraft on the apron with its crew. Besides the model it includes terrain, figures and accessories. It's larger and more complex than a vignette.

#Dry transfer · rub-on marking

An older type of marking that isn't soaked in water. The motif is transferred by laying the film on the model and rubbing the marking with a blunt tip so it "transfers" onto the surface. Less common today, but still found in some accessory sets.

#Drybrushing · dry-brush highlighting

A technique for highlighting detail "dry." You load a little lighter paint onto a brush and wipe most of it off on paper, so the brush is nearly dry. Light strokes across the model catch paint only on the most raised edges and details, visually pulling them forward. It works beautifully on rivets, edges, engines or the fur of figures.

#Ejector pin mark · molding mark

A round raised or recessed mark on a plastic part, left during manufacturing when ejector pins push the finished part out of the mold. On visible spots it must be sanded or filled; on hidden ones nobody will notice it.

#Enamel paint · solvent-based paint

A paint based on organic solvents (thinned with white spirit). It's known for high durability and a very long drying time, which is actually an advantage for weathering, since the paint can be blended and toned for a long time.

Enamels are widely used for washes and filters. They do have a stronger smell and need ventilation. Note: enamel thinner can attack an acrylic coat underneath, so a protective varnish is applied between layers.

#Feathering · softening an edge

Gradually "fading out" the edge of a paint or effect so there's no hard transition. Used when wiping down filters and streaks, or when blending two shades, so the result looks natural.

#Figure · model of a person

A model of a human figure, on its own or as part of a vehicle or diorama. It's most often painted by brush with acrylics or oils, with emphasis on the face and on shading the folds of clothing. It's a modeling discipline in its own right.

#Filter · tone-unifying coat

A heavily thinned paint (often only a few percent pigment) brushed over the whole model or part of it. A filter doesn't color strongly — it just gently unifies and shifts the overall tone, livens up a monotonous surface and ties different shades into one whole.

#Flash · excess mold plastic

A thin film of extra plastic that forms in the mold's parting line when material seeps in. It shows up mainly on older or cheaper molds. It's easily removed by trimming with a knife and sanding.

#Future / Klear · acrylic floor polish

An acrylic floor polish (known as Future, Klear or Pledge) that modelers use as a gloss coat, to "polish" clear parts to transparency, and as a smooth base for decals. A cheap, proven classic.

#Gate · part-to-sprue link

A short plastic bridge connecting a part to the sprue. During assembly the part is cut from the gate with nippers and the remainder is cleaned up so no mark is left. Never twist parts off by hand — you risk snapping a chunk out of the part.

#Gloss varnish · glossy clear coat

A glossy (transparent) varnish applied for two main reasons. First, it creates a smooth glossy base under decals, so no air is trapped beneath them and silvering doesn't occur. Second, it protects the paint before weathering.

The typical order is: paint → gloss varnish → decals → gloss varnish → washes and weathering → matte or satin varnish at the end.

#Gunpla · Gundam plastic model

The popular name for plastic models of the robots from the Japanese Gundam series. These kits are famous for snapping together (snap-fit) and often needing no glue or paint, which makes them a popular way into the hobby.

#Hairspray technique · HS chipping

A popular way to create realistically chipped paint. Hairspray is sprayed over the base coat (e.g. rust or metal), then the top color goes on, and once dry the model is dampened with water and the top coat is scraped away with a brush or toothpick where you want chips. The hairspray dissolves in water and the paint above it lifts exactly where you want.

The same principle works with salt (see Salt technique). There are also commercial "chipping" fluids made specifically for this.

#Hobby knife · scalpel

A modeling knife with a replaceable sharp blade. Used for cleaning up parts, trimming decals, cutting masks and fine work. A sharp blade cuts more cleanly and safely than a dull one, which is why blades are changed often.

#Kit · model kit

The box of parts, instructions and decals you build a model from. The word is used constantly in the hobby ("I've got a Bf 109 kit at home").

#Kitbashing · combining kits

Creating a new or modified model by combining parts from several kits. A modeler "raids" a turret from one kit and a hull from another to produce a version that was never sold as a kit. Often combined with scratchbuilding.

#Lacquer paint · hot-solvent paint

A paint based on a more aggressive solvent that dries very fast and forms an exceptionally durable, smooth film. It airbrushes beautifully and grips plastic more firmly than acrylic, because it slightly "bites" into the surface.

The price for that durability is a stronger smell and the need for good ventilation or a respirator. A note on terminology: most of today's modeling "lacquers" are in fact acrylic resins dissolved in lacquer thinner. They behave like lacquers, hence the name.

#Liquid mask · brush-on masking

A liquid masking product applied with a brush; it dries into a rubbery film and peels off after painting. Good for irregular shapes and spots where tape is hard to conform, such as around landing gear or on chipped areas.

#Markings · insignia and numbers

A collective term for all of a machine's markings: national insignia, fuselage numbers, lettering, unit emblems. They're applied to the model via decals or masks. They identify the specific machine and its allegiance.

#Mask · paint shield

A stencil that covers the parts of a model that shouldn't get paint. Most often these are pre-cut adhesive masks (for canopy frames, for example) or masking tape you cut to shape yourself. Masks produce sharp, precise transitions between colors.

#Masking tape · low-tack tape

A special low-tack paper tape (the yellow Tamiya tape is famous) that holds on the surface but doesn't lift paint or leave adhesive residue when removed. Used for masking straight transitions and for holding parts.

#Matte varnish · flat clear coat

A transparent varnish with no shine, usually applied as the very last coat. It unifies differently glossy areas into one matte surface and gives the model a realistic, "non-plastic" look. Satin (semi-matte) versions also exist for surfaces meant to be slightly sheen, such as painted cars.

#Metallic paints · metal-look paints

Paints that imitate metal (aluminum, steel, brass). This includes premium ranges like Alclad or Mr. Metal Color, which are airbrushed over a smooth glossy base and, once dry, can be buffed to a realistic metallic shine (see NMF).

#Mottling · dappled camouflage

A finely dappled camouflage made of small "blotches," typical of German fighters of WWII (the mottling on fuselage sides). It's sprayed with an airbrush at very low pressure and close to the surface — one of the harder airbrush techniques.

#Multimedia kit · mixed-material kit

A kit that combines several materials in one box, typically plastic, resin, photo-etch and sometimes metal parts. It offers a high level of detail straight from the box, but is more demanding to build.

#Natural Metal Finish (NMF) · bare-metal look

A finish imitating bare, unpainted metal (typically late-war American fighters). It's achieved with metallic paints in different shades for individual panels. Very striking, but it mercilessly reveals every flaw in the surface, so it demands a perfectly smooth base.

#Nippers · sprue cutters

Modeling cutters with one flat side, used to separate parts from the sprue. Good thin nippers cut a part off with minimal mark and make the subsequent clean-up easier. They're among the very first tools a modeler buys.

#Nozzle & needle · airbrush parts

The pair of key airbrush parts that meter the paint. A finer nozzle (e.g. 0.2 mm) allows thinner lines, a coarser one (0.4 mm) covers surfaces faster. The nozzle and needle must be cleaned carefully after use, or the airbrush "drags" and sprays unevenly.

#Oil dots · oil dot filtering

A weathering technique using oil paints. Small dots of various oil shades are placed on the model and blended into the surface with a damp brush. This creates subtle color variation and grime that livens up a uniform surface.

#Oil paints (OPR) · artist oils

Artist's oil paints (in tubes), popular for weathering thanks to a very long drying time that lets you blend and tone the paint endlessly. They're used for washes, filters, dotting (oil dots) and for the advanced OPR technique — Oil Paint Rendering — building color transitions and grime directly with oils.

They're thinned with odorless white spirit. Like enamels, it's best to apply them over a varnished surface.

#Out of the box (OOB) · kit parts only

Building "straight from the box" — using only the parts in the kit, with no aftermarket and no major modifications. At contests, OOB is often a separate category. An ideal approach for beginners to finish a model without needless complications.

#Panel lines · plating seams

The lines on a model's surface that represent the seams between the real machine's panels. They're either recessed (engraved — today's standard) or, on older models, raised. Panel lines are emphasized with a pin wash so they stand out and the model doesn't look like one solid block of plastic.

#Photo-etch · etched metal parts

A very thin metal part (most often brass) made by chemical etching. Thanks to its thinness it can replace details that couldn't be molded in plastic: grilles, seatbelts, fine levers in the cockpit or ribbing.

Photo-etch is bent with tweezers and small benders and glued with super glue or a special metal glue. For a more durable finish it's best to degrease the surface first, or blacken it (see Burnishing).

#Pigment · weathering powder

A fine colored powder used to imitate settled dust, dried mud, soot or rust. It's applied dry with a brush, or "fixed" with a drop of thinner or a fixing solution so it stays put. Pigments give a model tangible, three-dimensional grime, especially on running gear, tracks and vehicle undersides.

#Pigment fixer · powder sealer

A liquid that "fixes" loose pigments in place so they don't rub off. Apply it carefully (by capillary action or with a dropper), as it can temporarily darken the pigment's shade, which usually lightens again once dry.

#Pin wash · targeted wash

A wash applied selectively, only into panel lines, grooves and around details — not over the whole surface. With a fine brush the paint is "released" into the engraving and flows along the line by capillary action. The excess around it is wiped off. The result is clean, emphasized panel lines.

#Plastic kit · injection-molded kit

A kit made of polystyrene (injection-molded plastic) — the most common type of model. The parts are on sprues, joined with plastic cement and painted after assembly. They make up the vast majority of the market.

#Plasticard · sheet styrene

A thin, smooth sheet of polystyrene sold in various thicknesses. The basic material for scratchbuilding and modifications: plates, bulkheads and accessories are cut from it. It's glued with ordinary plastic cement.

#Polishing · buffing to a shine

Smoothing a surface to a shine with fine abrasives and polishes. Most often clear parts (canopies, lights) are polished to transparency, or painted cars to a high gloss.

#Post-shading · added shading

Highlighting or darkening selected areas after the base color has been applied. With an airbrush, seams, shadowed areas or panel edges are gently darkened — the opposite of lightening upper surfaces. It makes the model look more three-dimensional.

#Pre-shading · pre-painted shadows

A technique where panel lines and shadowed spots are sprayed black (or dark) before the main color. The main color is then applied thinly, so the dark base shows through slightly and creates subtle shadows and depth. A cheap, effective way to break up a uniform surface.

#Primer · base undercoat

A base layer applied to bare plastic (or metal and resin) before painting. It does three jobs: it unifies differently colored parts into one tone, improves the adhesion of following paints, and — crucially — ruthlessly reveals scratches, under-sanded spots and poorly filled seams you'd otherwise find too late.

Primer comes in rattle cans and for airbrush, most often in gray, black and white. A white or light primer suits bright colors, a dark one suits muted shades.

#Putty · filler

A material for filling seams, sink marks and imperfections. It comes in several forms: single-part putty from a tube (sanded once dry), thin putty for fine scratches, and two-part (epoxy) putty for sculpting missing shapes. After filling, the spot is sanded and checked with primer.

#PVA glue · white glue

White dispersion glue (PVA, school-glue type) that dries clear and transparent. Good for gluing clear parts (it won't fog them) and small items where a less strong bond is fine. It's also widely used in diorama work to fix grass and ballast.

#Razor saw · fine modeling saw

A modeling saw with very fine teeth (a so-called razor saw) used to cut thicker parts precisely or to cut a model apart for modifications. The thin blade leaves a narrow kerf and removes minimal material.

#Rescribing · re-engraving lines

Restoring or newly creating engraved panel lines, typically where the original engraving was lost to sanding seams. Using a scribing needle or a special tool and a template, the line is carefully "re-engraved" so it stands out again after weathering.

#Resin · cast resin parts

Parts cast from polyurethane resin. They tend to be very detailed and are used mainly in the aftermarket and by small-run (garage) makers. Resin is harder and more brittle than plastic, is glued with super glue, and must be washed thoroughly before painting, as mold release agent clings to the surface.

Sanding resin produces a fine dust that's best not inhaled — ideally sand it wet and wear a mask.

#Respirator · breathing protection

A protective mask with a filter against paint and solvent fumes. When spraying lacquers and enamels (and sanding resin), a respirator with organic-vapor filters matters more than a simple dust mask. Protecting your lungs is not worth skimping on.

#Riveter · rivet tool

A hand tool that presses rows of even rivets into a model's surface. It's run along a ruler or a flexible template. The resulting riveting stands out beautifully after a wash or drybrushing.

#Riveting · adding rivets

Depicting individual rivets on a model's surface. Either rivets the manufacturer "hid" under paint or didn't mold are restored, or entirely new ones are added for greater realism. A riveter and templates are used for the job.

#Rust effects · corrosion

A group of techniques and paints for imitating corrosion: from a light bloom of rust to deep flaked-off areas. It's built up from several shades (orange, brown, dark rust) and often combined with pigments and chipping for a three-dimensional effect.

#Salt technique · salt chipping

A lifting technique similar to the hairspray method, except instead of hairspray, grains of salt are sprinkled onto a dampened base. After the top color dries, the salt is brushed off and the lower layer is revealed where it was. Good for irregular chipped surfaces, such as worn ship decks or vehicle wear.

#Sanding · smoothing surfaces

Smoothing surfaces and cleaning up joints with abrasives. You sand both dry and wet (with water), working gradually from coarser to finer grits. Careful sanding of joints is the foundation of a clean model; an under-sanded spot is revealed by the primer.

#Sandpaper (wet & dry) · abrasive paper

Water-resistant abrasive paper that, in finer grits (e.g. 1000–2500), is used wet. Water carries away the dust and the sanding is finer and smoother. Sanding sponges and files serve alongside the paper.

#Scale · size ratio

The ratio of the model's size to the real object. 1/72 means the model is seventy-two times smaller than the original. The larger the number after the slash, the smaller — and usually cheaper — the model, but also the less room for detail.

The most common aircraft scales:

• 1/144 — small scales, ideal for large bombers and airliners
• 1/72 — the most widespread "universal" scale with a huge range
• 1/48 — popular for fighters, more room for detail
• 1/32 — large models for maximum detail (and a large display case)

The most common military-vehicle scales:

• 1/72 — compact, pairs well with aircraft of the same scale
• 1/48 — growing popularity, a compromise between size and detail
• 1/35 — the most widespread standard for tanks and figures
• 1/16 — large models, often with working features (RC)

For completeness: ships are most often built in 1/350 and 1/700, cars in 1/24 and 1/25, motorcycles usually in 1/12.

#Scratchbuilding · building from scratch

Making a model, or part of it, completely from scratch — from plastic profiles, sheet, wire and other material, without using ready-made kit parts. The highest modeling discipline, used to make missing details, modifications or even entirely unique models.

#Seam line · mold seam

A thin visible line where two halves of a part (a fuselage or a gun barrel, for example) meet after gluing. It must be sanded down so it disappears, or it gives away that the part is two pieces joined together.

#Silvering · decal silvering

A defect where a decal goes silvery and matte around the edges once dry. The cause is air trapped under the decal's carrier film on a matte or rough surface. It's prevented by applying the decal over a gloss varnish and using decal setting solutions.

#Sink mark · molding dimple

A shallow dimple on a part's surface, formed during molding where the plastic is thicker (behind a raised detail on the other side, for instance). It's fixed by filling and sanding, or by flooding with thin putty.

#Snap-fit · no-glue assembly

A kit design whose parts snap together and hold even without glue. Typical of starter sets and Gunpla models. Suitable for complete beginners and for building with kids.

#Sprue · parts frame

The plastic frame the kit's individual parts are attached to during manufacturing. The connection between the frame and a part is called a gate. The sprue is sometimes called a "runner" or simply a "tree."

#Stippling · dab-on texture

Applying paint by "dabbing" with the tip of a half-dry brush. It creates an irregular texture, good for suggesting a rough surface, blotches or the early stage of chipping.

#Streaking · vertical grime

Vertical streaks of grime, rust or oil that run down the real machine through rain and use. On a model they're imitated with thin vertical strokes of paint (often enamel or oil) that are gently blended downward and softened. They give a surface "life" and a story.

#Stretched sprue · drawn plastic thread

A thin plastic thread made by heating and pulling a piece of sprue. Used for very fine details such as antennas, cables or wiring. A cheap "homemade" material every modeler has on hand.

#Surfacer · filling primer

A thicker relative of primer that, besides priming, fills and levels fine scratches, pores and small irregularities. After application it's sanded and the surface is smooth and ready for paint. The best known is the Mr. Surfacer range in various "grits" (e.g. 500, 1000, 1200 — a higher number means finer).

#Test fit (dry fit) · trial assembly

A trial assembly of parts without glue, to check how they fit and where putty or adjustment will be needed. A test fit before gluing saves a lot of later trouble and is one of the basic habits of a good modeler.

#Thin cement · capillary glue

A very thin plastic cement that works by capillary action. The parts are held together first and the cement is then "released" into the seam with a fine brush, where it flows in on its own. It locally melts the plastic and welds the parts together. Cleaner and more precise than thick tube glue.

#Thinner · paint thinner

The liquid used to thin paint to the right consistency (mainly for airbrushing) and to clean the airbrush and brushes after work. The crucial rule: each type of paint has its own thinner. Acrylics thin with acrylic thinner or water, enamels with white spirit, lacquers with lacquer thinner. The wrong thinner can curdle the paint into clumps.

#Tracks · tank tracks

The tracks of the running gear on tanks and armored vehicles. In kits they're either "vinyl" (rubber-band style, joined with heat) or link-and-link (each link separate — more work, but more realistic). Tracks are a rewarding spot for mud and dust weathering.

#Vacuform · vacuum-formed parts

Parts made by pulling a heated plastic sheet over a mold. They tend to be very thin and fine (typically clear canopies or whole fuselages of small-run models), but more demanding to build, since they have to be cut from the sheet and carefully cleaned up.

#Varnish · clear protective coat

A collective term for the transparent protective coat applied to a model. By sheen it's divided into gloss, satin and matte (flat). Varnish protects the paint and decals and at the same time sets the final look of the surface. Most models finish with a matte or satin varnish.

#Vignette · small scene

A small scene with a single model (and perhaps a figure) on a compact base that tells a short "story of one moment." It's smaller and tighter than a diorama and puts the emphasis on the model itself and its setting.

#Wash · detail-enhancing coat

A heavily thinned, dark paint used to emphasize detail and cast shadows into recesses. Once applied, the wash flows into engraving, seams and around protrusions, where it darkens as it dries and visually pulls out the detail. The excess is wiped off the surface. A wash is often the very first weathering step (see also Pin wash).

#Weathering · simulated wear

A collective term for the techniques that imitate the wear and dirt of a real machine. The goal is to give the model a believable look, not factory-fresh cleanliness. The most common techniques include:

• wash — emphasizing detail and shadows
• drybrushing — pulling out edges and raised detail
• filters — gently unifying and shifting tone
• pigments — dust, mud, soot, rust
• chipping — worn paint and bare metal
• streaking — streaks of grime and oil
• dust and mud effects — settled dirt on running gear and undersides

The power of weathering is in combining techniques and in restraint: the goal is realism, not "as much dirt as possible."

#Wet palette · anti-dry palette

A palette with a dampened membrane on which acrylic paints don't dry out as quickly. It gives the modeler more time to mix and brush-paint, especially on figures. Easily made at home from a container, a sponge and baking paper.

#WIP · work in progress

Short for "work in progress." On modeling forums and social media it labels in-progress build photos — a model that isn't finished yet. "I'll post a WIP" means "I'll show the model as it's being built."

#Zimmerit · anti-mine paste

A rough paste-like coating the Germans applied to tanks in WWII to stop magnetic mines from sticking. On a model it's imitated with stamps, putty or special sets and creates a characteristic ribbed texture.